Anti Icky Poo Complete Treatment Guide

Carpet treatment.

If you are able to lift the carpet, spray both sides as well as the padding and floor. In fact, spray everything that appears to be contaminated. This may include walls, curtains, hearth, etc. If you’re not able to lift the carpet, a large syringe may be used. Injecting is the recommended method for treating carpeting. For those who are not injecting, make sure to get the liquid into the padding because that is where 90% of the urine is. To do this, spray the surface, walk on the area thoroughly, wait 2 days and spray the surface again thoroughly. Have ready a spray bottle of our enzymatic digester, a larger container of the same, and a shallow bowl in which to pour. Drawing the liquid from the bowl is the easiest method of filling the injector. Pierce the carpet backing with the needle and lift the tufts slightly with your other hand. Slide the needle in horizontally between the secondary backing and the top of the pad. Push one ounce, or 30 cc's, into the void. Repeat the procedure each four to six Inches, grid fashion, throughout the contaminated areas until satisfied that you have adequately covered it all. You can expect that one ounce will cover four to six Inches in diameter depending on density of the fabric and thickness of the pad. Generally, you will have to refill your injector many times. Using your spray bottle, cover the face yarns well and walk around on the entire treatment with yo ur full weight In order to spread and squeeze in the good stuff. When white foam from the digester appears up through the carpet backing beneath, you know it has soaked all of the way through.

Rug treatment

For standard rugs, simply spray both top and bottom thoroughly and walk on the rug to penetrate the fibers. Wait 2 days and repeat. Oriental Rugs These rugs present a special challenge. Please follow the proper procedure for the treatment of urine contaminated oriental rugs. Hand made antiques are the most valuable of all area rugs. Originating in eastern cultures, these rugs, in a broad sense, are commonly known as “Orientals.” Woven by hand with the assistance of crude looms, they were constructed primarily from dyed wool. Unlike modern colorfast dyes, those used in the antiques tend to be unstable and bleed easily when wet. “Color bleed” is a condition whereby one color migrates into another. Lignin, a natural dye exuding from the fabric may further complicate matters. Since wetting is essential for adequate cleaning, these rugs are a special challenge for those professionals who care for them. In addition to wool yarns, some of the binding materials used in the weaves include cotton, silk and linen. Dyes used are primarily vegetable based, but includ other experimental and exotic dyes, as well. The key is that all of the materials used came from “natural” sources; the fabrics, dyes, basically everything used for manufacturing are derived from sources readily available to its creators. Natural fibers used in the spinning of yarns are complex, each type having unique characteristics. These fibers are20porous, or absorbent. All grew with a lumen, or hollowness; a natural fiber is constructed like a tube that is hollow on the inside. While the complex surface and twist of the yarn tend to hide dry particulate soiling, staining is more likely to occur when liquid soiling is taken into the lumen, then dries. Immersion cleaning of wools is recommended as natural fabrics require thorough soaking in order to adequately flush the accumulated soils. Oriental rug cleaning professionals commonly use a water bath with a lowered pH. Acids added to the bath tend to freeze unstable dyes thereby reducing the risk of color bleed. High alkalinity as found in dried urine increases the risk of dyes bleeding: a high pH, or alkaline condition, can more easily bleed the colors of these acid set dyes into surrounding areas. Dried urine becomes increasingly alkaline over a period of time and can cause “color bleed.”

Clothing, Fabrics and Materials

For machine washable fabrics only, for top load washers or tub submersion, add clothing to your top loading washer or into a tub for soaking. Put in clothing and add water to the top of fabrics. Add 1 cup MisterMax Products to washing machine or tub and let sit for 24 hours. Then wash normally in the washing machine.

Cloth Furniture, Bedding and Drapes

Spray a generous supply of the bacterial enzyme solution directly on the fabric. For deeper penetration, work the bacterial enzyme solution in with your hands so that in is squeezed into the fabric. If the contamination is on a cushion or mattress then injecting is recommended. For blankets, sheets, drapes, sleeping bags and clothes, spray both inside and out generously with bacterial enzyme solution, let sit for 24 hours and wash normally. Sleeping bags might need two treatments.

Leather treatment

Leather is not very porous and in many cases the contamination will have flowed right off the surface. In this case just spray Anti-Icky-Poo on the leather and you’re done. For leather couches or chairs, most likely the contamination has flowed into the cracks, which makes it slightly more difficult to treat. Just lightly pour the product following the same path the contamination has taken allowing the Anti-Icky-Poo to roll off into the cracks the same way. If the contamination has soaked into the couch or chair past the leather covering and you need to inject, try to inject into the seams.

Wood Furniture treatment

Simply spray the bacterial enzyme solution directly on the surface and leave it alone.

Concrete is a very porous substance

Urine can penetrate deep into concrete in very little time. We have seen urine travel up to 12 inches deep in a concrete slab. In order to completely remove the source of the urine you need to get Anti-Icky-Poo to penetrate to the deepest contamination. First clean the surface area with a mild dish soap to help get rid of any harmful chemicals you might have used previously. Towel dry the concrete to get rid of any left over residue. For overall cleaning, dilute the solution 3 to1 (3 parts water with 1 part cleaning solution) and mop the solution on very heavily. Allow the solution to completely soak in for 24 hours and repeat. For heavily concentrated areas, puddle the product on the area at full strength. To prevent Anti-Icky-Poo from evaporating, saturate bath towels and with water so they are dripping wet. Bunch them up in a ball and completely cover the contaminated area. This will create a moisture barrier so that the Anti-Icky-Poo has enough moisture to penetrate the concrete where the urine deposits lie.